A stop in the Frijoles Visitors Center for a short video introduction, and then we're off to see the carefully protected Pueblo or Anasazi ruins, last inhabited around the mid-1500's.  Anasazi is the name given to descendents of the Pueblos and means "ancient ones."

hile some believe that the Anasazis up and disappeared with no known trace from the Four Corners Region of the southwest USA, others believe they fled to New Mexico and Bandelier Monument is one of those settlements. 

The hundreds of masonry ruins of Bandelier are both unusual and magnificent, some of which are considered to be among the most spectacular in the country.   Soft red in color, the steep canyon walls, created from the erosion of soft lava and ash, have fascinating twists and hollows, making them an ideal spot for human habitation.

Although there are over 70 miles of trails in Bandelier, only 3 miles are public road.  Hikers may venture into the backcountry for an extended day and exquisite scenery, but the Frijoles Canyon cliff dwellings, known as talus houses, are just a short walk from the Visitor's Center.

We choose the Main Loop, 1.5 miles, because it takes us to the cliff dwellings, then back along the gurgling Frijoles River among the pines.  

"You're half way there - the worst is yet to come!" A jovial man in his late 40's calls out to us.  We must look alarmed, because he laughs and says, "it's all uphill from here."  He's right.  

	The next leg of the hike ascends the wall of the soft mountain via narrow steps to the massive Long House.   The D-shaped structure has 300 first floor rooms and some believe the structure extended three stories high.    Living quarters revolved around an interior plaza and all doors opened to the inside.  From the plaza, a narrow passageway led to the outside.
We try to imagine what life was like with neighbors - hundreds of them - just steps from your small circle of space.  Life was simple then, or was it?`

We notice the ceiling is charcoaled, undoubtedly from wood fires used to keep warm and cook meals.  From that arises the question of food and clothing in the cold New Mexico winters.  What did they eat and what did they wear?  

Given the rich volcanic soil and generous moisture of the Frijoles Canyon and nearby Jemez Mountains, food and game were plentiful.  In the museum at the Visitor's Center, we learn that clothing and shoes were hand woven from plants and brush.  Even cooking pots and utensils were fashioned from vegetation.  Well, maybe life wasn't so simple.

Continuing on, we detour down the path, passing pictographs with untold stories, and arrive under the Ceremonial Cave, or Kiva, a large hollow in the upper cliffs used by the tribes as a meeting room.  To reach the cave, we climb up four steep ladders (140 feet), then descend into the cool interior through a small opening in the roof.  

Standing now in this large circular cave, we are awed by the determination and strength required to create this village, by the dedication and creative nature of these people who used their natural resources to provide a comfortable and safe habitat.

On the way back along the creek, information signs are posted  telling us we may catch a glimpse of lizards, snakes, deer, brightly-colored birds, the Abert squirrel - the one with distinctive dark-edged pointed ears - and other wildlife.  In the summer, the path is encased in wildflowers, but the sound of the creek, rushing eagerly over the rocks, the soft sway of the trees and whiffs of pine, satisfy our hunger for nature's gifts. 

The park has more to offer if you have the time.  Bring your backpack and explore seventy miles of trails to intriguing destinations such as the Shrine of Stone Lions, the Painted Cave, and the mesa top prehistoric village in the Tsankawi area.

Or take the Falls Trail which descends 700 feet to the Rio Grande valley, passing two high waterfalls, and after 14 or so miles, leading to Cochiti Lake and the nearby Cochiti Pueblo.

We leave the park feeling humbled by our conveniences and luxuries.  When, by the way, was the last time you made your shoes?

Travel Basics from the National Park Service - how to get there, facilities, hours, camping, permits and activities.

To read more history about the park, go to this 12 chapter online book by Hall Rothman.

What makes New Mexico so hot and spicy?  Let's have a look at that NEXT.