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 Der Fondue Chessel
Keystone, Colorado

 

The icy night air prompts us to hurry past the twinkling lights of Keystone Village to the gondola that will whisk us up the mountain to Der Fondue Chessel.

Keystone has the ambiance of 'Europe meets America', with lots of Alpine architecture and names like Alpenglow Stube, Razzberry's, Goat Soup and Whiskey and Kickapoo.  It's the only ski resort in Colorado with two high speed gondolas, and we're about to find out what it's like to look down on the Rocky Mountains. 

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 Night skiing has brought out a whole new group of outdoor adventurers who are clambering up the slope in their heavy ski boots to catch the gondola with us.  Our turn comes and we are given a skinny, gray blanket to bundle up in as the gondolas, although closed, are not heated.  We cuddle up together and the gondola drops off the platform and begins the climb to our first stop.

The lights on the slopes lend the first leg of our trip to a festive, almost electrifying mood.  The quiet motor on the gondola plugs away and sends us steadily up the white mountain until we reach the top, unload and run over to the "Outpost", a second gondola.  The air is decidedly thinner, and the cold below seems warm in comparison.

Our blanket seems almost useless now, but we're warm with anticipation, hopeful that a big fire, delicious food and a unique experience await.  As the second gondola slides forward, we are plunged into darkness, leaving the lighted slopes behind and hovering above the cragged juts and valleys of the snowy mountains below.   Off in the distance, at a much higher spot, we see a light, which is comforting.  Our gondola sways gently and determinedly glides upward on the cable.  

From start to finish - base to North Peak - the ride is about 45 minutes.  We have ascended to an elevation of  11,444 feet; the air is just a sliver now and the cold pierces our faces as we rush across the snow past Alpenglow Stube - the highest fine dining experience in North America - and into Der Fondue Chessel.   

A blazing fire roars at the end of the massive dining room decked out with dangling flags from a slotted pine ceiling.   Long, Austrian, family-style tables line the room on either side.  

Everyone sits together and eats the same Swiss/Bavarian cuisine.  First our waiter takes drink orders from a menu of delightful selections.  Dub chooses a Captain Hook, hot apple cider with a little rum; a Chilean cabernet catches my fancy and we settle in to thaw out and melt into the surroundings.

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wpeC.jpg (25423 bytes) A trio in lederhosen wanders around the room filling the air with Austrian echoes from The Sound of Music and other 'alpine' tunes.  Periodically, guests wave them over to make requests, and the three happily launch into a new series.  

Soon our waiter arrives and begins to prepare a delicious Caesar salad, then sets up a fondue pot with bubbling cheeses into which we dip big hunks of crusty bread and vegetables.  Entree choices are made from a list of lamb, beef, quail, bratwurst, shrimp, scallops and pork.  We each get two, and before they arrive, he lights up the grill and leaves us to wallow in the glow of good food and entertainment. 

The meat arrives with little red potatoes and a variety of tasty sauces for dipping - poppy raspberry, honey mustard, dill horseradish and sun-dried tomato.  We sprinkle spices on the meat, then wait for the sizzle to perfection.

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Grill with raclettes

Using the little raclettes, which are small, metal grills, we melt cheese and butter to enhance the meet or potatoes, as we choose.

Every bite is superb.  We laugh, and trade food and talk about how vulnerable we felt in the gondola.  A waitress comes by to see how we're doing, so we ask her how she likes her gondola ride to and from work everyday.  She shudders involuntarily, then giggles that it's usually fun because they all go down together, but she remembers one night when she was running late and had to take it by herself.  It was very spooky, she admits.

The grand finale is dipping strawberries and cake into chocolate fondue made with Guittard chocolate, Frangelica and Grand Marnier!  Sinful!  Stuffed and warm both inside and out, we bundle up and leave to catch the gondola for the ride down.

As we float across the mountain tops, above some of the most dangerous land in the world, we marvel at this opportunity to dine in the sky.   The moon makes the crevices in the mountains wink, and the wind, gently rocking our gondola as it slides down the mountain, lulls us into an eerie thoughtfulness.  

Soon the lights of the town start blinking, we reach the transfer platform and descend quickly back to reality.  Dining at Der Fondue Chessel, was indeed, a breathtaking high!

The icy thrills of Keystone aren't over yet.  Tomorrow we try our hand at Ice Fishing - Brrrr. GO!
 

 
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